Characters Welcome

It's been a busy week in Copacabana- mostly in the lab and settling into that routine, but also re-discovering all of the secrets and mysteries of the town! One of the great things about travelling is the opportunity to meet diverse and interesting people. And if characters are what you are looking for, Copacabana is the place for you!

This town is a somewhat odd and constantly fluctuating mix of people- local Aymara, ex-pat Argentinians who run a lot of the tourist restaurants, Bolivian tourists from La Paz in town for weekends, European tourists passing through (and a few Americans but less so because of the visa), and a sprinkling of other long term residents. After coming here for a few years, there is a fair amount of continuity in who you see. Here are some highlights (some details obscured since ya know, everyone has the internet these days!):

--The charming and helpful local internet cafe employee. I think this guy has helped me reconnect with the world every summer I've been here and has always cheerfully taken my money to do so. He has also recently helped me (try to) make some international phone calls. When I told him that the phone wasn't working, he tried a few things, then shrugged and said "No se, parece que los Estados Unidos tienen una problema" (I don't know, looks like the United States has a problem). True on so many levels!

--The grouchy Scotsman (?) who runs a local bar. I swear, I've only ever been super polite, left tips (which is also rare here), and approached him in both English and Spanish (not to presume anything) and this guy is just chronically and reliably grouchy. Kind of nice to know some things never change!

--The ex-pat American who is living here illegally (this character tends to change every year, but there's always one). Always eager to here updates from "back home"and then expand on why living here/in South America generally has been the most existential, uplifting, "honest" experience of their lives. Also generally mistrusts any government and forms of capitalism, unless of course you want to buy some of their handmade jewelry?

--The Aymara storeowner who really does want you to buy soemthing but also just wants to get back to watching her telenovella/child/soccer match. She'll heave a big sigh when you ask questions about how much things cost or if she has a t shirt in a different size/color, but don't try to walk out without purchasing anything!  Once you've made her work for it, you better pay up. And then you will be rewarded with a big smile and a hearty "Gracias a USTEDES!"

--Any number of people yelling to advertise their taxi/minibus/bus to La Paz/Kasani/Tiquina/Cusco. Don't try to walk past certain corners without expecting to turn down rides to any number of places that you may or may not want to go. Generally destinations are shouted to a nice cadence though, so that's something.


And so many more! I guess someone could easily write a profile of the snobby archaeology student who walks around looking down on tourists or thinks she shouldn't pay a "gringa tax" (elevated prices for those who are white/not Bolivian) just because she has been here before!